Designer Swim

This spring some of the main players in the fashion scene have also released swim lines. Some of the designers include, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Trina Turk, Diane von Furstenberg, Juicy Couture, Ralph Lauren Polo and Milly Cabana (see left). I particularly like the designs by Trina Turk (see right). She mixes fun colors and flattering designs, almost all of her pieces include gold links which would look good on tan skin!

A newcomer to the swim scene is Jessica Simpson, who is apparently dipping her toe in everything from shoes to jewelry. However her designs are bland and unoriginal. The fit however is very good, so I predict that it might sell well, because most women care more about fit than design when it comes to swim. The price range on the Jessica Simpson swimwear collection is also substantially lower than other designers ($40-$60).

Coach Jewelry Falls Short

The once chic brand Coach is continuing to struggle, their spring collection jewelry is a perfect example of why they have been so unsuccessful and will continue to be so, unless they make major changes. When browsing the Coach website I found that Coach uses the same strategy with their jewelry line as they do with their bags and wallets, they simply stick their trade mark C's wherever they can, and as many times as possible. A perfect example of this is the Miranda Collection, see left. Coach describes the necklace as:

"The timeless design of this medallion necklace adds an air of elegance to any outfit. Its graphic pattern of repeating Signature C's can be worn both dressy and casual" (Coach).

In my opinion the design of the medallion can hardly be called a design, it is not attractive and it most certainly isn't timeless. Though the Signature C's are recognizable I don't understand how Coach expects to move product when that is all that their designs are. How does having a "graphic pattern" warrant the designer label, that Coach is so desperately trying to maintain.

However I would be lying if I said that the entire collection solely consisted of the Signature C's, the fragrance bracelet, see right, features the word Coach multiple times and also has little sketches of their mediocre fragrance. Why the constant repetition? Coach seems intent on throwing their name and C's in every direction they can, this is an unwise move for a struggling brand. A smarter move would be to limit the signature C pieces and instead establish a line with more style to reinvent their image.

See Forbes.com for more insight to Coach's expected downfall

Gilly Hicks - Abercrombie Guns For Victoria's Secret

Abercrombie & Fitch is launching a new lingerie concept ("Concept 5" in internal A&F jargon) called Gilly Hicks. The new brand isn't Montauk-flavored (A&F) or California-influenced (Hollister), but rather down-under-ified (is that a word?), straight-outta Sydney.

The brand uses the same old A&F tricks: youthful, fit models shot on black and white film who prefer gallivanting-about sans clothing to anything else. Their intro video (click) is playful and exotic, reminiscent of cliché 90's television perfume ads.

What Abercrombie is trying to sell here, indeed, as they always have, is a lifestyle. They got teens and twenty-somethings hooked on their rugged, old-school outdoorsy theme at their original branded stores, sold us a piece of California's surf and punk culture at Hollister, and now they're trying to sell us Australian swimwear like it's some sort of nouveau Brazil. Is Australia the best image to sell for lingerie?

Aside from having the distinction of the highest skin cancer rates on earth, Australia might be a tough sell.

Only the future will divine whether Australia is a marketing dream: the first 5 to 7 Gilly Hicks boutiques open up around the US during January and February.

Stores Opening Soon

NATICK
1245 WORCESTER STREET
NATICK, MA 01760

SMITH HAVEN
313 SMITH HAVEN MALL, ROUTES 25 AND 347
LAKE GROVE, NY 11755

FOX VALLEY
195 FOX VALLEY CENTER DRIVE
AURORA, IL 60504

MALL OF AMERICA
240 WEST MARKET
BLOOMINGTON, MN 55425

WESTFARMS
500 WESTFARMS MALL
SPACE #201-204A
FARMINGTON, CT 06032

Not much info is yet available on Gilly Hicks, just a little mention in an article over at the Columbus Dispatch:

Abercrombie and Fitch - Not Just All-American

Loeffler Randall for Target - Cheap and Moderately Chic

Loeffler Randall, the New York shoe and accessories line designed by Jessie Randall since 2004, has picked up a lot of editorial coverage lately, and buyers across the country have taken note. Ms. Randall's shoe collection can now be found everywhere from tiny shoe boutiques, like Lamb's Ear in Fremont, to extreme luxury landmarks, like Bergdorf Goodman in New York. The company recently expanded to include a clothing collection, now carried at Nordstrom, Les Amis, and Tulip in Seattle. With all the buzz, it was only natural that a collaboration with target was next.

Already in stores, the collection consists of two styles of flats, two styles of handbags, and three styles of clutches, all offered in a variety of fabrics or faux leathers. The shoes are all $29.99, while the clutches are all under $25 and the handbags under $50. For those prices, are they any good? A recent trip to my local Target revealed that the shoes were surprisingly chic for the money. The metallic rose cinched flats looked and felt on par with several shoes that cost twice as much. The rosette ballet flats avoided kitsch by using less conventional colors. All in all, these are all perfectly serviceable pieces of footwear for a very agreeable $30.

The bags, on the other, feel exactly as they should for their price. While their woven design is attractive enough, clearly a riff on Bottega Veneta's increasingly popular Intrecciato weaving, the material used is what one would expect at these under $50 price points. The satchel and large tote have handsome proportions, but the brown patent looks, feels, and, worst of all sounds cheap. The vinyl squeal elicited by the patent is painful to hear. The faux leather versions of these bags are much less offensive, but they still lack the feel of genuine leather. For the money, fabrics almost always looks better than faux leathers at the bottom end of the price spectrum. Instead, these bags come off as trying too hard to be something they're not, too hampered down by price constraints that result in excessively cheap materials. something that previous Target designer collections have also suffered from, most notably those from Rafe Totengco and Devi Kroell.

Cosabella and Sex and The City Join Forces

Whether you are a Carrie, a Miranda, a Charlotte or even a Samantha, Cosabella will soon be able to fit your lingerie needs. The much loved Miami based brand signed a licensing agreement with HBO and the collection is due to hit U.S stores in April. The new collection will feature four groups, each one based on a different SATC icon. So whether you are fashion forward, all business, conservative but girly or a little bit racy, you can find your style in Cosabella’s new line.

Posh Spice and Jennifer Connelly, Fashion Muses

Victoria Beckham has been named the next face of Marc Jacobs. Following in the footsteps of such characters as Meg White, Jennifer Jason Leigh, Winona Ryder, and even Dakota Fanning, lovely Posh Spice is a perfect fit for the sort of celebrity-obsessed, counter-culture irony that Jacobs likes to maintain for his brand. The ad campaign will be shot by Jacobs' regular collaborator Juergen Teller.

In an equally perfect pairing, Jennifer Connelly will star in the Spring/Summer 2008 ad campaign for Balenciaga. A longtime friend and muse to Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière, Connelly has the ideal mix of dark, elegant beauty, intelligence and exceptional talent that befits the house. Connelly is the first non-model celebrity to pose for the brand.

Could Posh and Connelly be any further apart? I don't think so.

Designer News

1) Pierre Hardy is set to design a line of shoes for Gap. Hardy was a shoe designer for Dior in the 1980s and he currently designs jewelry for Hermès and unbelievably amazing shoes for Balenciaga, as well as his own slickly modern eponymous shoe and handbag line. The line debuts in Europe and a few other markets by the end of this year, with the American debut early next year.

2) Roberto Cavalli's designs for the Spice Girls reunion tour have been released. Cavalli did the costumes for J. Lo's pregnant tour and Christina Aguilera's semi-pregnant tour. I wonder if any of the Spice Girls are pregnant...

3) Kirsten Dunst will be the next face of Miu Miu. Miu Miu has had quite the fascination with actresses in the past several years. The current campaign features the lovely Laetitia Casta, while previous campaigns have featured the likes of Lindsay Lohan, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Evan Rachel Wood, Selma Blair, Lou Doillon, Kim Basinger, Ludivine Sagnier, Zhou Xun, and Camilla Belle.

Anne Klein - Isabel Toledo = Boring Sportswear

An Anne Klein look by Isabel Toledo, Spring/Summer 2008, which won't hit stores next year

In an effort to update the brand and give the company a stronger, more contemporary image across the board, Anne Klein, a division of Jones Apparel Group Inc., decided a year ago to enter the (already relatively crowded) designer sportswear arena. To fill the role of creative director, the company hired Isabel Toledo, who already had her own eponymous line in the same category and stocked at stores like Nordstrom. The line was meant to compete with other modern American sportswear names, somewhat edgier than Michael Kors, but maybe slightly tamer than Marc Jacobs.

On the runway, there were clear influences of the New York art world in Toledo's use of prints and colors, which is fitting considering that Isabel's husband is none other than Nordstrom fashion illustrator extraordinaire Ruben Toledo. Editors and store buyers loved it, with Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus stocking up on fresh classics, like delectably detailed, printed shirtdresses and crisp white shirts with a gorgeous, feminine tux pleats. The fashion-foward ad campaigns featured Stella Tennant and longtime Anne Klein model Carolyn Murphy in a much more conceptual narrative than any prior campaign.

But, sadly, the designer line is being shuttered in order for the company to focus more on their bridge- and better-priced collections (which have generally been pretty staid and ho-hum for ages). It's too bad because Isabel Toledo was the breath of fresh air Anne Klein, and indeed America's wilting fashion reputation, sorely needed.

Oprah's Favorite Things + Nordstrom

Notice anything particular about the three items featured on the Nordstrom.com home page? Those Ugg boots, the Clarisonic system, and the Rachel Pally set were all featured on Oprah's Favorite Things episode, which airs today. It's funny how subtle it is, there's no mention of Oprah anywhere. Buy! Buy! Buy!

Paris Reviews - Nina Ricci S/S 2008

For his latest collection for Nina Ricci, Olivier Theyskens took his signature dark moodiness to the streets of Paris. His jeunes filles looked marvelously disheveled after a long night out on the town. Last season's ethereal, featherlight (and feather-heavy) collection set the tone for the hopelessly romantic Theyskens, and this season he continued his youthful theme with a series of looks that would be perfectly appropriate for the likes of Julia Restoin-Roitfeld (daughter of Vogue Paris editrix Carine Roitfeld) and her European socialite friends. For the girl who loves Giambattista Valli's irreverent-chic party frocks, Theyskens' leggy looks will seem right on target, if slightly more edgy than purely pretty. The silhouette was both lean and languid, with concert-inspired tees flowing with diaphanous chiffon panels attached, paired with pants ranging from cropped, fluid satin to lanky, enviable denim. Incredibly thin leather jackets had an undeniable downtown appeal, while the endless parade of hyper-short dresses (or were they tops?) will fit right into the discotheques of Paris and beyond. One can only hope the heat of spring and summer will keep these girls warm. When the occasion calls for more than just a flirty club outfit, there was an appropriate suit or two for going to the office.

But who says the Nina Ricci girl needs to work under the harsh glare of fluorescent lights? The bulk of the collection focused on evening looks, for the Nina Ricci girl is apparently more comfortable on the red carpet than in a conference call. Building on the success of Reese Witherspoon, whom Theyskens has been dressing in Nina Ricci for the biggest events all year, Theyskens sent out full-length looks not just to end the show, but throughout the whole collection, a less-than-subtle reminder that nighttime is where he (and ultimately his customer) shines. While none of the gowns was entirely challenging or fresh, especially after last season's L'Air du Temps-inspired showstoppers, there were certainly some stunning creations, including a number with the transparency seen on nearly every important runway this season. Theyskens is building a strong, romantic identity quickly at Nina Ricci, so it'll be intriguing to see how he backs these looks up in the stores, especially considering many are either at the upper end of ready-to-wear or are made-to-order, like the demi-couture he favored at Rochas (which has since been closed down). Will there be more of the practical day looks and cozy sweaters in the showroom? Is there a line of high-margin accessories right around the corner? Nina Ricci already has a strong perfume business, and the shoe business has been blooming. Are handbags far behind? Both the boon and the bane of luxury fashion houses in recent years, it would be interesting to see how Theyskens would do it without diluting the house's image.

Nina Ricci is available at Mario's Seattle and Nordstrom Bellevue.

Paris Reviews - Balenciaga S/S 2008

Nicolas Ghesquière is easily considered one of the greatest designers of our time, and with this latest collection for Balenciaga, he proves he deserves the accolades. What makes him so special is how deft he is at capturing the couture craftsmanship and attention to silhouette that Cristobal Balenciaga was obsessed with, while somehow managing not to dilute his own strong vision of a new woman. This collection was no different. Florals are coming back in a big way for spring, quite literally. The majority of the opening looks consisted of highly sculptural outfits composed of a different hyper-colorful floral pattern. The shoulders were pronounced, and every look was paired with some intensely graphic gladiator boots, courtesy of Pierre Hardy. Midway through the show came some toned-down separates that could actually look right in place on city streets (albeit some extremely chic ones). The commercial quality went right back out the door, though, as the show ended with a series of strong, monochromatic looks in stiff, shimmery, masterfully seamed and darted fabric. This certainly wasn't a collection of pieces meant to sell. There weren't the bevy of kitschy handbags and accessories that have come to make Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton shows such a repetitive spectacle. These were couture-quality clothes made for the ready-to-wear runway, if only to inject a bit of fantasy and a lot of brand identity into a runway season seriously lacking in both. For that, I thank Mr. Ghesquière. And when it comes down to the bottom line, it's shows like this that get women clamoring for those Balenciaga bags in droves.

Hot Trenches for a Cold Winter

I Like Her Style blog had a great post about the ongoing trench fad this winter and some of the associated brands.

Halle Berry walks along the set of her new film, 'Perfect Stranger' with bodyguards January 30, 2006 in New York City.

Left to right: Trench Coat, $170, www.topshop.com; Houndstooth Wool Coat, $59.80, www.forever21.com; Belted Wool Trench Coat (also comes in black), $36.50, www.wetseal.com; Metallic Python Trench Coat, $39.50, www.wetseal.com

Left to right: Dolce & Gabbana Ruffled Trenchcoat, $1995, www.saks.com; Olivia Wool Trench Coat, $70.50, www.delias.com; City Style Trench Coat, $79.95, www.nyandcompany.com; Belted Trench Coat, $129, www.bebe.com

The classic trench is a wardrobe must however, why not try something new and opt for a modern take on this coat. Metallics are still making the rounds this season so if you’re brave enough buy a deep bronze or shiny gold trench. Also consider hot pink, bright white and electric blue. The contrast of a shocking, crisp color and classic shape works well. Lastly, if you want something simple and long-lasting pick tweeds in brown or grey…. way more interesting than boring black.
-Via. I Like Her Style

Coach Stock Falls On Slower Store Traffic

Longtime American fashion stalwart Coach (NYSE: COH) is down some 12% right now, about an hour before the end of trading, as the company reported slower store traffic in its US retail stores. Could this be a sign that Coach goods aren't keeping up with the marketplace? Is Coach, as a brand, losing its cachet? What do you think?

Paris Reviews - Lanvin S/S 2008

Alber Elbaz pulled off a feat in his latest collection. He created one of the most refreshing, directional collections in Paris, all without resorting to the typical theatrics that lesser designers use to engage their audience. In fact, Elbaz created a collection of flowing, gathered shifts and gowns, and, here's the kicker, all in polyester jersey. The result was breathtaking. Using a palette that ranged from rich, conservative neutrals to modern, deeply saturated brights, Elbaz's fan base of gloriously chic women could easily replace their entire wardrobes. There were belted day dresses, easy blouses, and slick pencil skirts for work, incredibly airy gowns and sparkling sheaths for night, and a handful of satin shorts, tuxedos and trenches just because. Absolutely stunning and sure to fly out the doors next spring.

Lanvin is available in Seattle at Barneys New York, Mario's, and Nordstrom (NYSE:JWN).

Fashion Rocks 2007

My Fashion Life did a great summary of this year's "Fashion Rocks"- a collaboration event combining the music and fashion industries in Westminster, London.

Fashion rocked its Prada socks off last night at the Royal Albert Hall as music met fashion for one of the most anticipated dates this year. Samuel L Jackson along with Uma Thurman played hosts as top artists from the musical arena collaborated with top runway designers. Line ups included The Gossip for Christopher Kane, Dame Shirley Bassey for Marchesa, Rosin Murphy for Gucci and Lily Allen for Chanel.

Highlights of the evening: Whitney Houston making a comeback to remember and Uma Thurman leaving hardly anything to the imagination in a see-through Valentino gown embellished with Swarovski crystals

More pictures after the jump.

Kate Moss arrived in a 1920’s cream flapper dress from her new Christmas collection for Topshop, also customised with extra trimmings from Swarovski. (The dress will be auctioned in aid of the Princes Trust)

Joss Stone opted for a clean, fuchsia figure hugging dress.

Heather Graham shone on the red carpet in a flattering strapless number.

-Via My Fashion Life

Interestingly enough, Uma Thurman's dress looks familiar to the Transparency Trend we spoke of earlier this week!

Long Dresses

Style Bytes had an interesting piece on upcoming trends in Women's Dresses today...

"While I´m not sure whether I´m getting one of those one shoulder dresses (unless I found some great 80´s dress of the sort secondhand) I do know something else I want. I´ve been collection pictures of all the long light floral dresses popping up on the runway. I usually feel a little uncomfortable in long dresses and skirts, but if it´s something more in the line of these I think it can work even for me. It doesn´t have to be floral though, not all of these are, but at least with some sort of print. And so the search for the perfect dress begins… Sometimes you just know it will take forever so it´s a good idea to start looking as soon as possible.

D&G, Michael Kors, Nicole Miller and Etro.

Blumarine, Just Cavalli, Christian Lacroix and Sue Stemp."

-Via. Style Bytes

What do you think?

The New London Kids

Move over Gareth Pugh and step aside Christopher Kane! Make room for Louise Goldin, the new London kid making waves with her sex-inspired, body-conscious, techno-"coloured" creations (and from Central Saint Martins, naturally). Separate all the clashing colors and patterns and one is actually left with several distinctly magnificent pieces of apparel. The above combination is actually one fantastic white one-piece swimsuit over a flirtatiously sheer chiffon cover-up in the colors of an orange creamsicle. London flair that might actually get sold in stores? Now that is innovation.

- via style.com

Twelve By Twelve: Forever 21's Upscale Venture

Announced this week, Forever 21 (Google Finance) takes a new direction with their new brand Twelve by Twelve. Introducing a more upscale approach to affordable, fashion-forward clothing, Twelve by Twelve aims to cater to a slightly older constituency with ready-to-wear pieces. Attempting to mimic the successes of MNG Mango and Zara (Google Finance), the clothing seems to be intended for older adults looking for clothing to go out in. Adding to the success of Forever 21's individual pieces, Twelve by Twelve also will contribute matching pieces for a more put together look.

Previously, Forever 21's growth and success has been attributed to the high in-store turnover ratios, as well as the momentous flow of new products being introduced. Inspired by the most up and coming trends on the market, it is estimated that the production turnaround time is as little as two weeks, providing their customers with affordable access to the newest styles.

Based on the released photos, the current perception seems somewhat negative of the future prospects of the brand. However, based on the current market for fashion-forward ready to wear clothing combined with the production genius behind Forever 21, I remain bullish.

Source [Images, Data]

Designer Alert: Riccardo Tisci

When Riccardo Tisci debuted his eponymous ready-to-wear line in Milan for the Fall 2005 season, it was a gothic masterpiece unlike anything else happening in Milan at the time. The collection recalled the works of other young upstarts like Olivier Theyskens, encompassing beautifully envisioned romanticism infused with a rich, dark edginess. Just as quickly as he was listed as one-to-watch, he was snatched up by Givenchy to take over the design helm for both ready-to-wear and couture. The word is that he got the job because he never once mentioned the legacy of Audrey Hepburn, who was Hubert de Givenchy’s muse, an influence that would continue to dominate the Givenchy legacy long past its relevance. In just 2 short years, he’s taken the house to places Ms. Hepburn never could have imagined. Instead of working within the same frameworks of the Givenchy name, Tisci threw it all out and the window and started fresh. His latest collection for the house had a naval/nautical theme, unique in Tisci’s flair for dramatic silhouettes and even more dramatic detailing. Bolts of pleated chiffon floated over thigh-high leather boots and under thick navy wool coats with oversized lapels embellished with gigantic gold studs. And in terms of what makes it to the selling floor, Tisci has consistently proved his ability to cut a mean pair of trousers and a sharp LBD. Now that the revival of the handbag division is also underway (as seen on the arms of the Olsen twins, among others), Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy will be a force to be reckoned with.

Cross-posted via FabGrind and Crash!

Young British...Designers?

YBA has long stood for Young British Artist, a term art historians have used to categorize all the avant-garde and post-modernist London "youngsters" blowing up in the art world for the past couple of decades. This has included everybody from Damien Hirst to Marcus Harvey. However, the past couple of years in the fashion world has given rise to a new breed of creative Londoner: the Young British Designer. Long regarded as an experimental, if not always spectacular, breeding ground for new talent, London Fashion Week has recently become a much more exciting place to be. Even those YBDs who aren't exactly in their 20s are still worth watching, if only because they're injecting something so much more exhilarating into fashion than the usual art school fashion major. Here are some names to watch:

Christopher Kane - Currently the most promising of the crowd, Kane's body-hugging elastic band construction has garnered comparisons to Hervé Léger (whose own vintage creations are popping up on starlets all over Hollywood). For Spring 2007, his look was loud, brash, and party-ready. Think hyperneon pinks and oranges with day-glo yellows and greens, topped off with gigantic Swarovski zipper pulls. His Fall 2007 collection brought about a sense of maturity, evident in the more muted color palette - mostly black, with shots of deep scarlet, amber, and emerald - and mid-thigh hem lengths instead of last season's hyper-micro-mini. Kane's sense of color and detailing has set him apart from the other Gianni Versace-revivalists, so much so that Donatella herself has hired Kane as a part-time consultant. Ikram in Chicago, which bought his entire first collection on exclusive for America, promptly sold out in just a few days. When wider distribution comes about, expect the same massive hysteria from coast to coast.

Marios Schwab - For this 28 year-old designer, flashbacks to the late 1980s and early 1990s aren't about crazy coke-fueled partying - he was still just a young chap back then. Fair enough, but can someone so young bring back an era that many are desperate to forget? Well, Schwab is trying, with mostly promising results. His Fall 2007 collection wasn't his strongest, with Schwab evidently trying to capture the 1980s by mixing Azzedine Alaïa body-hugging silhouettes with an unfortunate Laura Ashley-esque floral print. What worked best were his breezy frocks in a black paisley scarf-print silk chiffon, as well as his wide selection of very sellable sportswear and cocktail dresses in solid black and ecru. While his identity may be based on an Alaïa-revival philosophy, he certainly needs to develop this more commercial range before he can make it in the big leagues of Paris.

Giles Deacon - The oldest of the crowd, Deacon has garnered a lot of attention for his recent S&M/punk-inspired collaboration with Mulberry, purveyor of fine, conservative leather goods. Often featured in Harper's Bazaar, his work takes on exotic, directional visions of something very beautiful in nature. Within every collection, he falls somewhere between timelessly elegant and youthfully irreverent. For Fall 2007, he focused on the most dramatic aspects of creatures that humans tend to overlook. He incorporated the textures and patterns of both bird plumage and sea-creature skins, bold and rich and oh-so-beautiful. With his recent collaboration with British chain New Look and his new position as head designer for the more-upscale British company Daks, Deacon has secured quite a bit of financial success for his future.

Gareth Pugh - Initially criticized for making clothing that was more about theatrics than, well, clothing, Gareth Pugh is still fairly resistant to producing a runway show filled with anything that will hit the sales floor. While his theatrics have earned him comparisons to last decade's big YBD, Alexander McQueen, it still remains to be seen whether Pugh follow in McQueen's footsteps and tone things down to a wearable dimension. There's no doubt that he can make a killer coat - see here - but more often than not his work is drowned in a sea of almost Surrealist insanity. With his various editorial features in W over the past several months, it's hard to deny that he must be doing something right.